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Showing posts with label International Food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label International Food. Show all posts

Tuesday, January 13, 2015

Food Almost Fit for an Ottoman but Definitely Fit for His Purse

Typically, Turkish food in Korea consists of doner kebabs bought on the street in the early morning hours amid zombie hordes of the young and drunk. But there is more to Turkish cuisine in this country than drunk food. One good example is Efes, a Turkish restaurant in Songtan down the street from the main gate of Osan Air Force Base.

Efes, pronounced "F-S," is a yummy place to visit for those curious about what Turkish foods lie beyond doner kebab.

They have a large menu with a variety of meals. Generally speaking the meals fall into three categories: shish kebabs; pida, colloquially known as "Turkish pizza;" and big platters of braised meat like kavurma and karisik tava. You can even order sides and desserts like eggplant salad and kazandibi, a Turkish rice pudding.

Lahmacun garnished with lemon and parsley
Prices are really high, so when I last visited I didn't order much. But still, it added up. Between Turkish tea, lahmacun, and adana kebab, the bill came out to 31,500 won or around $30. That's a bit steep for lunch for two in a country where $10 to $20 can typically buy two people a satisfying meal.

At those prices one hopes the food had better be good. It is.

Lahmacun is a pida baked with a layer of seasoned ground beef on top. Served with lots of dipping sauce and garnished with lemon and greens, it tastes a lot lighter than the grease stained waxpaper would indicate. This was the favorite of Eat Korea's official robotic taste tester, The NetBot.

Adana Kebab with lots of veggies and bread to mix
Adana kebab also features seasoned ground beef, but it is molded around a skewer and roasted over coals. It is served with half a pida and some sesame bread plus a medley of fresh veggies: seasoned onions, red cabbage, and lettuce. And if the bread doesn't add enough carbohydrates for you, they also include a scoop of Turkish rice and something that completely caught me off guard: french fries. They were good fries too, the kind that one might find at an American diner with your burger.

The kebab meat was much richer in the spice department than that on the lahmacun. I liked it. Middle Eastern spice, meat and coals are almost always a winning combination for this inveterate carnivore. The NetBot, however, being a converted pescetarian, is much pickier about her meat. For her, intense meaty flavors are too viscerally evocative of a formerly living creature. So, despite enjoying Adana kebab at other places, Efe's hit her pescetarian nerve.

Tastes delicious, not unlike a doner kebab
While eating, the NetBot also brought up a good point. While the food was great, she couldn't justify the price for what we got. The lahmacun was unique enough, but on its own it would be a large snack or a light lunch. Not exactly worth 12,000 won. Plus, if you took a bit of adana kebab, wrapped it in pita, topped it with veggies and drizzled the spicy and yogurt sauces on top, it tasted very similar to another common Turkish food. It tasted like doner kebab, and you can get doner kebabs on the street for around 4-7,000 won.

In fairness, perhaps we didn't get lucky with the flavors. We stuck to the more affordable and friendly looking items on the menu. Maybe, our experience would have been more unique if we had ordered the 33,000 won beef kavurma for two or the lam ribs for 28,000 won a plate. But even then, at those prices, though the food be yummy, Efes is too expensive by our standards to visit except on special occasions.

To get to Efes, take the subway to Songtan. There is a taxi stand right in front of the station. Tell the driver to go to the "main gate." A short ride will bring you to the front gate of Osan Airforce Base. You should see a walking street lined with shops on your right. Walk down that street.  Eventually you will pass a restaurant on your left covered with gargoyles. Efes is not far away. It will be on your left, a short walk further down the street between a cellphone/phonecard shop and Peace Music.







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Saturday, October 11, 2014

Eat Your Way to Suwon Immigration

More than four years ago I was standing between cars on the Mugunghwa train to Suwon. Unfamiliar scenes of rice fields and communities of concrete high-rises passed my view, and in my pocket was a torn piece of paper with Korean directions for the taxi driver when I arrived at the station. I had lived in Korea for a little over a month, and it was time for the Gyeongi-do ESL teacher's right of passage: a visit to Suwon Immigration Center to get an E2 visa card.

It was the first of countless trips to Suwon Immigration over the years. However, in retrospect they could have been much smoother and cheaper trips. An expat's life is full of expenses, namely alcohol and hangover food. To make things worse, many blogs and websites I've seen give confusing or inaccurate information on how to get to Suwon Immigration. Schools are not much better. Nobody needs the extra stress of trying to navigate confusing directions when you have to be back to teach in a few hours and you're still recovering from hoesik, the Korean company dinner-drinking-noraebang extravaganza. So here is the definitive guide on how to get to Suwon Immigration for newbies, along with the not so definitive guide on where to eat along the way.


1) Subvert the bus and cab drivers! Take the shiny new subway. It's cheap, convenient, and fast.
  • From Suwon Station take the yellow Bundang line to Yeongtong (영통). 
  • Distance: five stops away.
  • Travel time: ~15 minutes 
  • Cost: ~1,050 won.
  • Take EXIT 1 out of Yongtong station. There will be a big HomePlus on your right and a large Lotte Shopping Plaza on your left across the street. Your view should look like this:
Yongtong Station, Exit 1
  • Walk straight until you get to the end of HomePlus and turn right. This is what it will look like: 
    The end of HomePlus. Turn right here.
  • Now here is the easy part. Walk straight for three blocks.
    One block down. Keep going straight!
    Second block behind you. Keep going! 
    Third block gone. The building behind the trees is Suwon Immigration.
Getting back to Suwon Station:
  • Just retrace your steps and take the subway back towards Suwon.
  • The first stop on your way back should be Mangpo.
Where to eat:
  • There are hundreds of restaurants, cafes, and hofs in Yongtong making it a perfect area for a good night out. On a visa run, however, you probably won't have time for a long meal. But if you have 40 minutes to spare try the nearby Hakoya. I don't like to recommend large chains, but they have recognizably Japanese ramen, something I regularly crave having spent quality time in Japan. Their ramen is still a shadow of what you will find in the Dōtonbori district of Osaka, but worth it nonetheless. To get to Hakoya, turn left at the second intersection as you walk towards Suwon Immigration. The restaurant will be on your left. 
  • If, on the other hand, you need good food in a pinch, try Nae Gohyang Wang Mandu (개고향 왕만두). You might recognize the brand if you watch a lot of Korean TV. It's a popular stop in the media, and for good reason. Their mandu and jjinbang are not only uncommonly delicious but cheap. Just one fist sized mandu will set you back a 1,000 won. They are across the street from Home Plus right after your first turn. 
Wang mandu (top) and jjin bang (bottom) from Nae Gohyang Wang Mandu in Yeongtong, Suwon

2) Take the Taxi. The drivers are characters.
  • Exit Suwon Station from the front. The taxi stand will be on your right in front of Baskin Robins.
  • You'll have to queue in line if there are a lot of people, but the line is usually small to nonexistent. 
  • Tell the driver that you want to go to Suwon Immigration. It sounds like this, "Suwon Chool-ip-gook-gwan-lee-saw-moo-so-eh ga-seh-yo." And looks like this in Korean: "수원출입국관리사무소에 가세요." 
  • Travel time: 10 to 15 minutes.
  • Cost: 7,000 won and up depending on the driver. 
  • If you are lucky you might find a cabbie like the one below who bombed the inside of his cab with a stadium's worth of Korean national pride during the 2014 World Cup. 
    Perhaps coincidentally, PSY's "Champion" was playing in the Taxi too. 
Getting back to Suwon Station:
  • Taxis wait in front of Suwon Immigration up until around five or six pm, after which time you'll need to find the main road and flag down a taxi or take the bus or subway.
  • To get back to the station tell the driver, "Suwon yeok-eh ga-seh-yo." In Korean it looks like this: "수원역에 가세요."
Where to Eat:
  • There is actually a lot of great international food near Suwon Station. One of my favorites is a dark, strangely empty Russian restaurant in a basement. What it lacks in atmosphere it totally makes up for in rich, flavorful, hearty fare good for bolstering public school comrades and gulag hagwon laborers through the cold, long Korean winter. To get there cross the foot bridge at Suwon Station that goes over the taxi stand. When you get to the end look down from the top. You should see an alley below you leading away from the station. Take the stairs on your right and follow the alley to its end. Immediately in front of you should be Damunhwa Food Land (다문화 푸드랜드). Damunhwa takes up the basement level of the building with several different international restaurants like Vietnamese, Thai, Chinese, Mongolian, and, of course, Russian. 
A bowl of borscht. Not at all fancy to look at,
 but would you expect from Russians?

3) Take the not so bali-bali bus. It's a good way to see the south-central side of the city.
  • Exiting Suwon Station, the bus stop for Suwon Immigration is on your right. It is past the taxi stand and pretty hard to miss with all the city busses traveling through it. 
    Suwon Station bus stop heading towards Suwon Immigration
  • There are two main bus lanes. It doesn't matter which one you are in.
  • There are six busses you can take: 5, 7, 7-2, 9, 310, 900
  • Take the bus to Yeongil Junghakyo (영일중학교) Yongil Middle School in English.
  • Distance: 29 stops away
  • Travel time: 15 - 20 minutes, but 45 minutes during evening rush hour. 
  • Cost: 1, 200 won without a transit card, but 1,100 won with a transit card like CashBee or T-Money — the same cards used on the subway.
  • When you get off the bus turn to your left and walk down the street. You should be walking downhill and the school should be on your right. Take your first right by the 7-11. The school should still be on your right. Walk past the school, and then keep on going straight for a block until you reach Suwon Immigration.
Yongil Junhakyo bus stop. The school is behind the trees.
Suwon Immigration coming from Yongil Junhakyo
Getting back to Suwon Station:
  • Walk the back to Yeongil Junghakyo
  • Take the 5, 7, 7-2, 9, 9-1, 310 or 900 back to the train station. 
  • Now, some observant subway takers might notice the bus stop in front of Lotte Plaza at the Yongtong subway stop. However, it is three blocks away from Suwon Immigration as opposed to just one. Moreover, there is only one bus on that stop that goes to Suwon Station, the 51 bus. And that bus runs every 17-20 minutes, so I do not recommend it.
Where to eat:
  • Across the street from Yongil Junghakyo is Pizza Heaven, home to some of the best pizza in Korea. I worked as a pizza chef for seven years from high school through college, so I am very picky about my pizza. And in a land full of Pizza Schools, Mr. Pizza, and even pizza from Lotte Mart, Pizza Heaven is truly a pice-a-heaven fallen from the table of the gods. In other words, it looks, tastes and smells like typical American pizza. This isn't anything to talk about in the USA, but in South Korea that's BIG. To put it in perspective, while on the way home to Pyeongtaek from Seoul one day I hopped off the train in Suwon to bring home a pie from Pizza Heaven. This was during rush hour no less, and I stupidly took the bus. I'd do it again too, bus and all. Now, how many Americans would drive 45 minutes out of their way for take-out pizza? 




(Edited Jan 29, 2015: Added information and photos for Nae Gohyang Wang Mandu) 

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